Boa Beer Blog

The BayTree Restaurant (The Pubs of Ireland)

Posted by BoaBeerBlog on May 15, 2013

Titanic Belfast

Titanic Belfast

FRIDAY, APRIL 26 — On day 4 we took a day trip to Belfast in Northern Ireland. We left on a bus at 8:30 a.m. with our fabulous tour guide and a group of about 40 people from Beth’s company. It was a pleasant two-hour ride through the rolling green hills of the Irish countryside. Going from Ireland to Northern Ireland was a bit like driving between U.S. states. There was no visible border between the countries, but you knew you crossed into Northern Ireland when the speed limit signs displayed miles instead of kilometers.

Our first stop in Belfast was the Titanic Belfast, an iconic building that houses an amazing museum. Even those weary of the oft-told story will be amazed by the Titanic Experience, an interactive exhibit spread over five floors and nine galleries that tells the Titanic story in a fresh way. The museum covers the construction and launch of the Titanic in Belfast, its infamous maiden voyage, the aftermath of the sinking, and discovery of the wreckage. After the fascinating self-guided audio tour of the museum, our group was treated to a private catered lunch.

We had even more time to explore the museum after lunch, but since Beth and I already had our fill of Titanic lore, we decided to look for a beer. There was a café on the ground floor where we found bombers of Titanic Quarter Beer. We grabbed two bottles and sipped them while waiting for the next part of our bus tour.

???????????????????????????????Titanic Quarter Beer is an English Pale Ale (4.2%) brewed by Hilden Brewing Company in Lisburn, Northern Ireland. It is named for an area of Belfast that is home to Titanic Belfast, the centerpiece of an urban waterfront renewal project.

After leaving the museum, we took a driving tour through Belfast, a city with an extraordinary history. At our last stop in Belfast – the impressive City Hall – I tried to find a six-pack for the long bus ride home, but no luck. Our next beer would have to wait until dinner in Carlingford.

Carlingford is a beautiful coastal town about halfway between Belfast and Dublin that boasts two castles. We pulled into Carlingford for dinner, and after a quick walk through the medieval streets, we settled into The BayTree Restaurant.

Now BayTree isn’t really a pub, but I had to mention it here because our dinner was the best meal of our trip. I started with a Caesar Salad with Chorizo, Roast Red Peppers, and Parmesan Shavings – one of the best Caesars I’ve ever had. My main course was fresh oven-baked breaded plaice served with mashed potatoes – a nicer variation of your typical fish and chips. Dessert was Raspberry Baked Alaska, but Beth’s Sticky Toffee Pudding with hot toffee sauce stole the show.

The food was great, but the beer? Not so much. No drafts and four bottle options: Heineken, Grolsch, Sol, and Coors Light. Seriously. I started with a Grolsch and then was told they were out of Grolsch. Heineken had to do…

We made up for it later with a couple of Harp tallboy cans that I bought at a pub to-go before boarding our bus for the hour-long bus ride back to our hotel in Dublin.

Carlingford Harbor panarama

Carlingford Harbor Panarama

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The Bull and Castle (The Pubs of Ireland)

Posted by BoaBeerBlog on May 14, 2013

Part 7 of my beer travelogue of our trip to Ireland…

THURSDAY, APRIL 25 — Day 3 of our trip to Dublin started with a sight-seeing tour of the city. The highlight was a visit to St. Patrick’s Cathedral, which was built around 1220 in honor of Ireland’s patron saint. The city tour ended at Trinity College, and just around the corner was Porterhouse Central, where we had lunch as I mentioned in an earlier post.

After lunch and shopping for souvenirs, we decided to try a pub recommended by a Dubliner – The Bull and Castle. You usually can’t go wrong when you get advice from the locals, and The Bull and Castle did not disappoint.

The Bull and Castle

Where it’s Located: 5-7 Lord Edward St, Dublin 8, Ireland

When Visited: Afternoon of Thursday, April 25, 2013

Beer Sampled: I ordered a 4-taster beer tray, and the server was friendly and patient as he helped me select local brew from the large Irish craft beer menu.

Irish Craft Beer Tray sign at The Bull and Castle

My tray included two beers from Metalman Brewing Company in Waterford, Ireland:

  • Chameleon Bräu, an easy drinking Lager
  • Chameleon Garnet, an Amber Ale with with hops from three Continents.

Bull and Castle house brewI also selected Dark Arts, a Porter from Trouble Brewing Company in Allenwood, Ireland. “Named for the part of the brewing process not quite covered by science.”

Finally, I had to include the pub’s house beer, F.X. Buckley Golden Ale brewed by Carlow Brewing Company in Carlow, Ireland. This light Golden Ale was a true session beer at 3.8% ABV.

I would have gone for the eight-taster beer tray but I had to pace myself for dinner later that evening.

We had dinner with the group from Beth’s company at a beautiful restaurant called The Church. The former St. Mary’s Church of Ireland was built in the 18th century, closed in 1964, neglected for over 30 years, bought and renovated in the early 2000′s, and then reopened in 2005 as a restaurant.

With a group of almost 100, we took over the crypt on the lower level. I’d love to go back and explore more of The Church, which is spread among four different levels and boasts the largest outdoor terrace in Dublin. It was a really cool place, and the beer selection was decent too.

I tried a few different brews over the course of the cocktail hour and dinner:

  • Caledonia Smooth, a Scottish Ale brewed by Wellpark Brewery in Glasgow, Scotland
  • Franziskaner Hefe-Weissbier, a refreshing German Hefeweizen brewed in Munich, Germany
  • And this beautiful O’Hara’s IPA from Carlow Brewing Company.

O'Hara's IPA

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J.W. Sweetman Craft Brewery (The Pubs of Ireland)

Posted by BoaBeerBlog on May 12, 2013

Part 6 of my beer travelogue of our trip to Ireland…

WEDNESDAY, APRIL 24 — After happy hour at The Brew Dock, we walked back towards our hotel. As we crossed the River Liffey, I saw it in big black letters on the front of the building: J.W. Sweetman Craft Brewery. We decided to check it out.

J.W. Sweetman Craft Brewery

Where it’s Located: 1-2 Burgh Quay, Dublin 2, Ireland

When Visited: Early evening on Wednesday, April 24, 2013

Beer Sampled: J.W. Sweetman claims to be the only pub in Dublin with it’s own microbrewery. I ordered a sampler tray of the four house beers on tap.

J.W. Sweetman Craft Brewery Sampler

Pictured above: Weiss (5.0%), Pilsner (5.0%), Red Ale (4.3%), and Pale Ale (4.5%).

The beers at J.W. Sweetman were easy-drinking session brews, and we thought about staying for dinner. But the service was lacking as the barman randomly disappeared on us a few times. So we decided to head back to Farrington’s instead.

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The Brew Dock (The Pubs of Ireland)

Posted by BoaBeerBlog on May 11, 2013

Part 5 of my beer travelogue of our trip to Ireland…

WEDNESDAY, APRIL 24 — After an afternoon exploring the small seaside village of Howth, we took the DART train back to Connolly station in Dublin city centre. We decided to take a leisurely walk in the direction of our hotel, and only a block later we were enticed into The Brew Dock.

Where it’s Located: 1 Amiens Street, Dublin 1, Ireland

When Visited: Late afternoon on Wednesday, April 24, 2013

How I Heard About It: We stumbled upon this place – lucky find! I knew this place was serious about beer when I saw this sign:

Life's Too Short to Drink Crap Beer sign at Brew Dock

Beer Sampled: It was happy hour and the place was busy, but we found two open seats at the bar. The Brew Dock had an ample selection of local Irish brews, highlighted by beers from Galway Bay Brewery:

Galway Bay Brewery Sign

I had my first ever “beer racket,” which was a sampler tray of three brews.

My racket included:

  • Bay Ale (Irish Red Ale)
  • Full Sail (IPA)
  • Stormy Port (Porter)

Racket of Galway Bay Brewery beers at Brew Dock

After the racket, I had a half-pint of another Galway Bay brew – Voyager, an IPA brewed with New Zealand hops.

We enjoyed the friendly service and draft beer selection at the Brew Dock and could have easily stayed longer, but we decided to press onward toward our hotel.

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Abbey Tavern (The Pubs of Ireland)

Posted by BoaBeerBlog on May 9, 2013

???????????????????????????????Part 4 of my beer travelogue of our trip to Ireland…

WEDNESDAY, APRIL 24 — Day 2 of our trip to Dublin started with a fascinating tour of Kilmainham Gaol, which opened in 1796. The prison was closed in the 1920′s before being restored and reopened as a museum in the mid 1980′s. We learned a lot about the struggle for Irish independence and the Irish Civil War. The prison housed all of the leading historical figures of Irish nationalism — and many were executed there. After the sobering but educational visit to the prison, we were ready for lunch…and a beer!

On the recommendation from my co-worker Worby, who travels to Ireland often to see family, we decided to spend the afternoon in Howth, a small seaside village on Dublin Bay. We took the DART train from Connolly station in Dublin city centre, and 20 minutes later we pulled into Howth. After a stroll along the waterfront, we found the Abbey Tavern. Described as one of the oldest pubs in Ireland, Abbey Tavern gave off an authentic old world charm.

Where it’s Located: 28 Abbey Street, Howth, Ireland

When Visited: Afternoon of Wednesday, April 24, 2013

How I Heard About It: We had mentioned to our cab driver from the airport that we planned to explore Howth. He recommended the Abbey Tavern, which confirmed the recommendation in Lonely Planet.

Beer Sampled: Beamish Stout, which is now brewed by Heineken International, but was first brewed in the late 1700′s by the Beamish and Crawford brewery. According to the website, Beamish is brewed using the original Beamish yeast dating back to 1792. That proud brewing heritage is evident by the quality of this Stout. My pints of Beamish were soooo smooth and really paired well with my burger.

Howth

View of Harbour Road, the main street through Howth

Later that afternoon…

After lunch at the Abbey Tavern, we walked back to the train station along the main street, which was lined with shops and pubs. We weren’t in any hurry to get back to Dublin and it was misting, so we ducked into another pub – The Waterside Bar. I had a pint of Kilkenny Irish Cream Ale while watching snooker in this sports bar-like Irish pub. Kilkenny, which dates back to the fourteenth century, is an Irish Red Ale served with a nitrogenated cream head similar to Guinness. No wonder – it is brewed by Guinness.

Our last stop in Howth was the Findlater Lounge. This was no Irish pub – it was a modern bar with a pleasant ambiance where I enjoyed a pint of Smithwick’s Pale Ale. I had seen regular Smithwick’s on tap almost everywhere, but this was the first time I saw the Pale Ale, and I was intrigued. We lingered here, talking to a friendly Polish barmaid about Bulmers, the popular Irish Cider. She poured us a sample, and after tasting it I vowed to stick to Irish beer for the remainder of our trip.

Time to take the train back to Dublin…

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The Barge (The Pubs of Ireland)

Posted by BoaBeerBlog on May 7, 2013

???????????????????????????????Part 3 of my beer travelogue of our trip to Ireland…

TUESDAY, APRIL 23 — Our first full day in Dublin was winding down. After dinner and beers at a couple of pubs in the Temple Bar district, we headed back to our hotel. But before calling it a night, we went to The Barge for a nightcap.

Where it’s Located: 42 Charlemont Street, Dublin 2, Ireland

When Visited: Evening of Tuesday, April 23, 2013

How I Heard About It: The Barge was right across the street from the Hilton Dublin in a beautiful building on the Grand Canal. The cab driver from the airport pointed it out to us when he dropped us off at our hotel. He highly recommended it, so we couldn’t wait to check it out.

Beers Sampled: I love Guinness. But I wanted to explore the Irish beer scene a bit before I had any Guinness. I had my fill of local craft brew earlier that day at Porterhouse and Farrington’s, so it was time for my first pint of Guinness. It was the perfect ending to our first day in Dublin.

Later in the trip…

The Barge was very convenient to our hotel, but that’s not the only reason we went back several times over the five days we were in Dublin. The interior was huge and fun to explore – there were three levels, with a bar on each level. And the service was outstanding!

On our first visit to the Barge, we kept to the small bar on the first level where we found the standard beer line-up – Guinness, Smithwick’s, Carlsberg, Heineken and the like. When we went back two days later it was late afternoon, but not quite happy hour, so it was quiet. We decided to venture off the first level to explore the place. On the second level I struck gold – taps of Messrs Maguire, a Dublin craft brewer.

I enjoyed a Messrs Maguire Pale Ale and Rusty as we watched the place being set-up for a huge Heineken Cup promotional event later that evening. I wanted to stay and try the interactive rugby kicking game, but we had other plans for dinner.

Heineken Cup Sign

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Farrington’s of Temple Bar (The Pubs of Ireland)

Posted by BoaBeerBlog on May 5, 2013

Part 2 of my beer travelogue of our trip to Ireland…

TUESDAY, APRIL 23 — It was our first full day in Dublin and we were exploring the thriving Temple Bar district. After lunch at Porterhouse Temple Bar, we walked to Farrington’s.

Where it’s Located: 28E Essex Street, Dublin 2, Ireland

When Visited: Late afternoon on Tuesday, April 23, 2013

How I Heard About It: We landed in Dublin early on Tuesday morning and had time to explore Dublin City Center while we waited for our hotel room to be ready for check-in. We scouted the Temple Bar district, which was quiet during the breakfast hour. On our leisurely stroll, we spotted Farrington’s huge tap selection through their front window. We made plans to come back that afternoon when it opened.

Beers Sampled: Farrington’s offered 12+ taps of Irish craft beers. They weren’t your run-of-the-mill Irish beers – no Smithwick’s here.  The beer chalkboard also included brew from Germany, Scotland, Belgium, and the U.S.

Farrington's Beer Chalkboard

I ordered a pint of O’Hara’s IPA (5.2%), which was an Irish Pale Ale brewed by Carlow Brewing Company. It was an easy drinking Pale Ale, but I was looking for something more interesting. The barman recommended O’Hara’s Double IPA (7.5%), which wasn’t listed on the beer chalkboard. This dark amber ale is described as “a bigger brother to O’Hara’s Irish Pale Ale.” It wasn’t a DIPA as we think of it in the U.S., but it was delicious.

BrewDog Hard Core IPAI was curious to try more Irish brews, so I ordered the Bo Bristle IPA from Bo Bristle Brewing Company in Offaly, Ireland. But the barman convinced me otherwise — after moving from an IPA to a DIPA, there wasn’t anything on tap that would take me to the next level. The barman recommended a bottle of Hardcore IPA from BrewDog in Aberdeenshire, Scotland. Great call!

Best Beer: BrewDog’s Hardcore IPA would give Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA a run for its money. So you know it was good.

Food: We were at Farrington’s long enough that we needed some food to soak up the brew. Beth ordered the mussels to go with her O’Hara’s Red Ale. I don’t like mussels, but they were served with traditional Irish Soda Bread, which I scarfed down.

We left Farrington’s in a great state-of-mind.

Later in the trip…

WEDNESDAY, APRIL 24 – We loved our visit to Farrington’s so much that we went back the next night for dinner. I got the Bo Bristle IPA to go with my Fish & Chips, and Beth had the Beef & Guinness Casserole. The service was again outstanding.

We were in the mood to hear some Irish drinking songs, but we instead enjoyed the lively sports bar atmosphere in Farrington’s as we watched the Borussia Dortmund vs. Real Madrid Champion’s League match.

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Porterhouse Brewing Company (The Pubs of Ireland)

Posted by BoaBeerBlog on May 3, 2013

The Boa Beer Blog is back from a five-day trip to Ireland. I’m home, fully recovered, and ready to post my beer travelogues.

TUESDAY, APRIL 23 — We landed in Dublin, Ireland early on Tuesday morning after our overnight flight from Newark. It was an easy flight, but we were tired, tense, and thirsty!

Our hotel room wasn’t ready so we settled for coffee since the pubs were closed. We killed time drinking coffee at Bewley’s, walking down Grafton Street, and scouting the Temple Bar district. By the time we got back to the Hilton Dublin our room was ready — time for a quick power nap.

Bolstered by a couple of hours of sleep, we strode out through the afternoon sun to begin exploring the pubs of Ireland. We started at Porterhouse Temple Bar, which opened in 1996 as Dublin’s first pub brewery.

Porterhouse Brewing Company Front

Where it’s Located: 16-18 Parliament Street, Dublin 2, Ireland

When Visited: Early afternoon on Tuesday, April 23, 2013

How I Heard About It: Porterhouse Brewing Company surfaced in my pre-trip research on RateBeer.com. It stood out because they brew their own beer.

Occasion: After our long trip from Maryland to Dublin we were ready for a hearty meal and some local brew. Porterhouse was at the top of my Irish beer to-do list and the Temple Bar location was an easy tram ride and walk from our hotel.

We arrived after the lunch crowd so there were plenty of open tables in the large multi-level pub. We settled into an open table and ordered our beers and traditional Irish grub.

Beers Sampled: Porterhouse Temple Bar offered a Sample Tray – 7 oz. glasses of three different beers for only €5. After looking over the menu…

Porterhouse Brewing Company Beer Menu

I worked through two sample trays:

Tray 1:

  • Porterhouse Red (4.2%)
  • Brain Blasta (7.0%)
  • Hop Head (5.0%)

Tray 2:

  • Plain Porter (4.2%)
  • Oyster Stout (4.6%)
  • Wrasslers 4X Stout (5.0%)

Porterhouse Brewing Company Sampler

Best Beer: Tough call, but I’d have to go with the Brain Blasta, “a fulsome, winsome strong ale” according to Porterhouse Brewing Company (Confession: I’ve never heard a beer described that way and had to look it up).

I also really liked the Hop Head and Plain Porter, which was actually a Stout.

Food: For our first meal in Ireland, we decided to share two dishes of traditional Irish pub fare: Fish & Chips and Bangers & Mash. The filling pub grub was just what we needed.

Later in the trip…

THURSDAY, APRIL 25 – I only tried six out of ten Porterhouse brews on my first visit, so a return visit was in order. Instead of going back to the Temple Bar location, we went to the more convenient Porterhouse Central (45 – 47 Nassau Street, Dublin 2, Ireland).

After a guided bus tour of Dublin city, highlighted by a visit to Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, we had lunch at the bar at Porterhouse Central. I wanted to try the Porterhouse brews I didn’t sample on our first visit. The only problem was that they were out of two of the very beers I wanted to try! On the other hand, this location had a seasonal Porterhouse brew and guest taps.

Porterhouse Brewing Company Beer Taps

I had two more sample trays, and four of my six beers were new to me:

  • Temple Brau (4.2%)
  • Chiller (4.2%)
  • Chocolate Truffle Stout (5.0%)
  • Metalman Pale Ale (5.0%), a guest draft from Metalman Brewing Company in Waterford, Ireland

The Chocolate Truffle Stout was one of the best chocolate beers I’ve ever had. It was silky smooth with an amazing chocolate flavor. It was like drinking chocolate milk!

Lunch was a shared appetizer platter of chicken wings, onion rings, cocktail sausages, chunky chips, and garlic bread. We also got an order of Prawns Pil Pil (apparently the appetizer platter wasn’t enough).

Even later in the trip…

SATURDAY, APRIL 27 — It was my last day in Dublin and there were still two more Porterhouse brews that I wanted to try. I went back to  Porterhouse Central for Round 3 of Porterhouse beers. I found the Hersbrucker (5.0%) on tap. But I guess the TSB will have to wait for a future trip to Dublin…

Porterhouse Brewing Company Beer Sign

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Wicked Weed Brewing (Spring Break 2013, Part 9)

Posted by BoaBeerBlog on April 21, 2013

Wicked Weed BreweryThe final post of the beer travelogue of our Spring Break road trip…

It was our last chance to enjoy Spring Break because the next day we would be breaking camp and driving home to Maryland. We decided to spend the day walking around lively downtown Asheville and exploring the local beer scene. The highlight of our day was our visit to Wicked Weed Brewery.

It was mid-afternoon on a Saturday and Wicked Weed was packed. It was a good thing we had already eaten lunch at Lexington Avenue Brewery, because there was a long wait for the tables in the upstairs restaurant. We were there for the beer, so we headed downstairs to the tasting room. It was busy there too, but we scored a table by being in the right place at the right time.

The beer chalkboard was almost over-whelming, with 14 different house beers on the menu. I was a little disappointed to see the notice that read “Flights Available Sun-Thurs Before 7 pm.” I wanted a flight so I could sample the large selection of hop-centric and Belgian beers. But there was a long line at the bar and the bartenders were hustling, so I understand the need to move things along by not pouring flights.

Wicked Weed Brewery Chalkboard

But their strategy back-fired on me – I built my own flight by ordering four half-pints:

  • Freak Double IPA (8.0%)
  • Zealot IPA (6.9%)
  • Cardinal Sin Belgian Red (7.6%)
  • Lunatic Blonde (6.7%)

Wicked Weed Brewery Half-Pints

Wicked Weed was my favorite Asheville brewery because the beer menu was focused on my two favorite beer styles – India Pale Ales and Belgian Ales. The next time I’m in Asheville, Wicked Weed will be my first stop! The beers were outstanding and I wish we could have hung out at Wicked Weed all afternoon.

Wicked Weed Brewery Front

The Bier Garden SignBut I was having March Madness withdraws, so we walked a few blocks over to The Bier Garden to watch the Elite Eight basketball game and try more local brew. I had a pint of Devil’s Britches IPA from Highland Brewing Company, my second Highland brew of the trip – I’ll make a trip to the Highland brewery during my next visit to Asheville. I also tried a Porter from Green Man Brewery, my third Green Man of the trip – in addition to the pint of IPA I had in Charlotte the day before, we enjoyed a six-pack of Green Man ESB at the campsite. Green Man Brewery is yet another destination during a future trip to Asheville.

There’s a recurring theme here. During our short time in Asheville, I sampled 37 beers in two breweries, three brewpubs, and two beer bars. And that’s not even 50% of the Asheville beer scene. So you can bet that I’m already planning my return trip.

Besides Asheville, I sampled 12 beers in two breweries and a beer bar in Charlotte, and 17 Tennessee beers – 9 in a brewpub along with bottles at the camp site. It was an epic Spring Break beer tour through the heart of Appalachia.

Totals: 66 beers, 4 breweries, 4 brewpubs, 3 beer bars, and multiple bottles.

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Lexington Avenue Brewery (Spring Break 2013, Part 8)

Posted by BoaBeerBlog on April 16, 2013

Continuing the beer travelogue of my Spring Break road trip through the heart of Appalachia — eastern Tennessee and western North Carolina.

It was our last chance to enjoy Spring Break because the next day we would be breaking camp and driving home to Maryland. We decided to spend the day walking around lively downtown Asheville and exploring the local beer scene.

Our first stop was the friendly Asheville Visitors Center, where we chatted with a helpful volunteer and got the scoop on downtown. Asheville does a great job welcoming visitors and their Explore Asheville website is an excellent resource – I loved the list of the top 15 ways to truly experience Asheville’s craft brew scene.

I only accomplished 5 of the 15, but #4 was a slam dunk: Beer Flights—Why settle for one when you can have all the beers? Many breweries, such as Lexington Avenue Brewery (LAB for short) and French Broad Brewing Company, offer beer flights so you can pinpoint your favorite.

After a morning of walking around downtown, we were ready for lunch. Lexington Avenue Brewery was conveniently located in the middle of the action.

After looking over the beer chalkboard…

Lexington Avenue Brewery chalkboard

I ordered the flight of the six house beers…

Lexington Avenue Brewery sampler

The IPA was my favorite! LAB is a spot I would hit again the next time I’m in downtown Asheville – relaxing atmosphere, friendly service, unique pub food, and decent line-up of house-brewed beers. Great location too!

Lexington Avenue Brewery front

It was great to break bread again with my sister Jen and her roommate Meghan, who joined us on our downtown Asheville exploration. After hanging out at LAB, it was time to resume our walking tour. We stumbled upon an organic farmers market with live music and draft beer. I couldn’t resist the chance to try another local brew, so I had the Equinox, a 7.5% Harvest-style Ale from Pisgah Brewing Company – one I missed when we visited a couple of days ago.

We didn’t linger because I had one more Asheville brewery on my to-do list: Wicked Weed Brewing.

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